Stella McCartney
Black cashmere, wool and silk blend cape with a detachable hood at the back.
These hoods are attached by buttons.
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| Chemstrand Nylon 1957 (myvintagevogue.com) |
This hood is attached by a pussybow tied at the neck.
Wednesday, 8 December 2010
Layered Capes
Wilhelm Storm Capes:
- This cape is not layered, but I really liked the silk work
on this cotton sateen cape.
Multicolored silk taffeta long sleeved bandneck capedress with layered insert construction and buttoned neck/cuff closure by Moon Spoon Saloon at Seven New York.
I also found this sheer cape by Moon Spoon Saloon.
Detachable Collars
One way of adding versatility to a garment would be by adding a detachable collar, so that the wearer could decide whether or not to wear the collar whilst wearing the cape.
Using a detachable collar:
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A starched-stiff detachable wing collar from Luke Eyres. |
"A detachable collar is a shirt collar separate from the shirt, fastened to it by studs. The collar is usually made of a different fabric from the shirt, in which case it is virtually always white, and, being unattached to the shirt, can then be specially starched to a hard cardboard-like consistency." (Wikipedia)Here is a brief history of the detachable collar according to My Custom Tailor:
Mrs. Montague, tired of washing her husband´s shirts because only the collars were dirty decided one day to snip off a collar, wash it, and sew it back on. Mr. Montague, it´s written, agreed to the experiment, and in 1827, the first detachable collar was made at their home at 139 Third Street.
Using a detachable collar:
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A pair of collar studs; the longer left one is the front stud |
"The collar is attached to the shirt by a pair of studs like those shown. The shirt has a tunic collar, a short upright band of fabric with a hole at the back and one on each side at the front. The stiff collar is attached at the back before the shirt is put on (and the tie placed under the collar for a turndown collar), then the shirt is put on, after which the front stud is pushed through the collar to fasten it."
"To starch a collar, it must be rinsed in boiling water to remove any starch, then laundered as normal. After soaking in a concentrated warm starch solution, it is left until nearly dry, then ironed until hard. While ironing, the shape is added by curling, or using a collar press".(Wikipedia)
Detachables
I decided that I want my final piece to have more versatility than a regular cape, so I'm going to look at detachable bits and pieces, and layering, for example making three capes that can be layered on top of each other or worn on their own. This would mean they would have to be different lengths and perhaps have different fabrics types, because three heavy fabrics might be too heavy to be worn together.
Friday, 3 December 2010
What Fabric will I Use?
I took a trip to a large fabric shop in my town, but was unable to find a suitable fabric which I would like to use in my fibnal product. The shop assistant told me to try online, so I had a look at http://www.cheapfabrics.co.uk/ and found some medium weight suiting fabric:
http://www.cheapfabrics.co.uk/thestore/product_info.php/products_id/5285
I will look around a bit more and look at suitable colours before buying it but it's a definite possibility for my final piece.
I also found this mushroom coloured 'velplush':
http://www.fabric-online.co.uk/content/i003_mushroom
I also thought about using some fake fur to create a more wintry feel like in this photo from the 1950's:
Which is also very fashionable now.
I found some beautiful cream faux fur online:
http://www.fabric-online.co.uk/content/b002_creamlonghaired
Or maybe some houndstooth? It was definitely popular in the 1950's:
It is an eye-catching, classic graphic design, which is still in fashion:
Here is some houndstooth fabric I found online at Abakhan.com.
They also do lots of different types of suiting:
http://www.abakhan.co.uk/acatalog/Suiting.html
I also found this mushroom coloured 'velplush':
I also thought about using some fake fur to create a more wintry feel like in this photo from the 1950's:
Which is also very fashionable now.
I found some beautiful cream faux fur online:
Or maybe some houndstooth? It was definitely popular in the 1950's:
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| Pierre Balmain 1950s houndstooth suit |
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| 1950s houndstooth dress |
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It is an eye-catching, classic graphic design, which is still in fashion:
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| Alexander McQueen houndstooth folded jacket, $2190, net-a-porter.com |
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| http://www.abakhan.co.uk/acatalog/info_32818.html |
They also do lots of different types of suiting:
http://www.abakhan.co.uk/acatalog/Suiting.html
Thursday, 2 December 2010
Capes of the 1950s
"The 1950's Cape
The cape emerged again as an updated fashion statement in the 1950s. Paris designers often favoured simplified lines and for bulky tweedy, check and mohair fabrics the easy lines of a cloak were perfect to show the fabric to perfection.
A short cape was promoted in 1955 and this example shows a picture from a magazine of 1955.
"The 1950's Cape
The cape emerged again as an updated fashion statement in the 1950s. Paris designers often favoured simplified lines and for bulky tweedy, check and mohair fabrics the easy lines of a cloak were perfect to show the fabric to perfection.
A short cape was promoted in 1955 and this example shows a picture from a magazine of 1955.
From Fashion-Era.com
Useful Links:
| 7 For All Mankind | |
 | HOLIDAY CAPE Chic and understated, this Herringbone Wool Cape is the perfect outerwear piece for the holiday season. The fabrication is a brushed herringbone wool that has a soft and smooth hand and offers great drap for this particular silhouette. |
Ideas for Knitted Capes: Fair Isle
FAIR ISLE: Traditional, yet eye-catching
Not only was 'Fair Isle' knitwear popular throughout the 1950s, it will also be on trend throughout 2010/ 2011 and was seen all over the Autumn/ Winter catwalks. The fashion is for both men and women:
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| Topshop |
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| Max Marra |
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| Ralph Lauren |
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| Rugby |
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| Rugby |
FAIR ISLE IN THE 1950'S
Useful Links:
http://www.theretroknittingcompany.co.uk/fairisle.html
http://knitonthenet.blogspot.com/2010/11/technical-bits-fair-isle.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fair_Isle_(technique)
http://www.suite101.com/content/introducing-fairisle-funky-knitting-techniques-a283174
http://blog.shopbop.com/2010/09/a-brief-history-of-fair-isle-knits.html
http://www.revolveclothing.com/magazine/MagazineArticle.jsp?articleId=299
http://knitonthenet.blogspot.com/2010/11/technical-bits-fair-isle.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fair_Isle_(technique)
http://www.suite101.com/content/introducing-fairisle-funky-knitting-techniques-a283174
http://blog.shopbop.com/2010/09/a-brief-history-of-fair-isle-knits.html
http://www.revolveclothing.com/magazine/MagazineArticle.jsp?articleId=299
Town and City Tufted Cape by Susan Crawford
Some 50s Elegance : Town and City Tufted Cape
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| Town and City Tufted Cape by Susan Crawford. Image copyright Arbour House Publishing. |
I really like this 50s inspired cape which I found on knitonthenet.blogspot.com. I didn't consider knitting as an option for my final design but I really like the way this one looks:
"Using an unusual tufted stitch, this flattering garment is inspired by elegant capes from the 1950s. It is also reminiscent of the capes worn by nurses in the same period, and I can just remember my own mother wearing a longer early-sixties version with her uniform in the late seventies. It is a really easy knit and would be great to start now in time for the chilly days of autumn. (Yes, I know. Hard to imagine just now in the Great British Heatwave!*)It really is a very versatile pattern which will fit sizes 30-52" bust and Susan says in her pattern notes that:
"The finished length is measured from the top of the main body at the front neck and includes the garter stitch edging around the bottom of the cape. The cape is very generous and accommodating in size and shape and will fit a variety of sizes. As a result, I suggest you consider what fit you would like before choosing your size. The small will actually fit a 42 inch chest but it will fit higher and more open at the front."
The cape is knitted in a standard double knit yarn on 5mm needles and is very warm without being bulky. The tufted stitch pattern makes lots of surface area to keep you cosy without great weight. This pattern would be excellent TV knitting (whilst watching the World Cup or maybe Wimbledon at the moment?) and is a real stashbuster, using only 5 or 6 balls of the main colour and one other for contrast."
This piece has inspired me to tryout knitting for the first time, creating a few samples to see how a cape like this might be achieved. I will then be able to decide whether or not to use this technique in my final design after finding out how well I can do it and how time consuming it is.
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